a $30 solder iron is just as good as a $3000 JBC rework station for a one-off job.

Where these the more expensive connectors, soldering irons and tools make a difference is when you need repeatability and very high reliability in a process; which is only valid if you are doing serial or mass production or making a one off Class III product.

In most other cases, as long as you know what you are doing (e.g. Not setting the house on fire) basic supplies would do just fine.

http://customcable.ca

Also, when you solder, not only the solder should get hot – both of the metals you’re joining should heat up nicely to create a durable and clean joint. When soldering through a hole like that, you should probably get the solder to “flow” a little along the exposed metal on the cable (which it will do if the metals are heated enough) so that there is solder through the hole along the cable, not just in a “lump” on the cable end.

And finally, electrical tape is ok, but the glue will dissolve and get old eventually and it will all get sticky and nasty; a much better alternative is to get some shrink tubing (or heat shrink sheathing) when you’re buying the other components and adding that instead of the tape – it will create a solid permanent wrap around the cable and connector that is miles better than electrical tape. 

Nitpickery, yes, but if you want a durable cable, worth doing it right.

I do have enough experience and can say that I can even solder vga panels w/o breaking a sweat.

Here are a few tips, for balanced cables find one which has dense enough braids to sufficiently cover the inner 2 leads. Aluminum wrap arounds are fine too just like your typical belden installation cables. To check if the leads/ wire strands are using good and pure copper. Try using a magnet to “try” to attract the cables. If they are attracted to the magnet, it means that the leads are probably composite alloy which uses iron. So they aren’t good. Conductivity is not as ideal as pure copper and also these composites are of cheaper and inferior grade and does not last that long.

For 1/4″ or 3.5mm TRS or TS, make sure that either the tip, ring or sleeve does not rotate freely. If they do, its time to replace these connectors.

For balanced cables, do make sure that you shrink wrap them to prevent short circuits in the future and to prevent corrosion.

Always strip the wire with the recommended length. It makes your life much easier and makes your connectors neater.

I’ve never build my own audio cables before but I have had some experience splicing and soldering various cables before.

I’ve never build my own audio cables before but I have had some experience splicing and soldering various cables before.